Supplies

Plastic Champagne Flutes with removable bases-You can find these at Garden Ridge or any party supply store.  They cost about $7 for a package of 10, but if you're lucky you can find them on sale for half that after Valentines or the June Wedding crunch.

Bead Stacker-I found these at both Wal-Mart and Hobby Lobby.  They're about $2.50 each and they make 5 lids for the holders.  Although the bases for the Champagne Flutes work for lids, I had a problem with getting them water tight as the lids don't have enough overhang to keep water from seeping into the holder itself.

Duck Tape for sealing the wiring holes and securing the lid onto the holder.

Old Soldering Pencil for burning the openings into the holder.  Use an old one if you have one, the one I used dates back to my High School days, I'm not sure they even make tips for it anymore, but it does work well enough so I don't mess up the tip on my soldering station.

Socket for the MR-16.  I bought these from BestHongKong when I purchased my LED MR-16s.  They cost 23 cents each in lots of 100, but you can also make your own using female molex crimp pins, just make sure you have the correct size as different suppliers use different size male connectors on their MR-16s.

Wire-The smaller the gauge the better, it makes it easier to seat the bulb into the holder.  I used 20 gauge wire that I had stripped from all the old mini lights I replaced with led strings in '06 and since the MR-16s run on 12V DC, they don't pull enough current to worry about the wires getting hot.

Heat shrink tubing or electrical tape to insulate the wiring splices.

Steel Wool-You may or may not need this, I'll explain later.

PVC pipe -1" in various lengths.

And of course, the usual assorted tools necessary for splicing and dicing.

Assembly

First thing you'll need to do is burn a hole in the side of the Flute to accommodate the wires for the light.  Use an old soldering Iron or Pencil for this as it really gunks up the tip.  You may also want to burn all the necessary holes outside in the fresh air, as the burning plastic can really stink up the house and I'm sure that breathing the fumes isn't real healthy either.

You'll want the hole for the wiring to be about half way down the side of the flute.  If you burn the opening too close to the top, it might interfere with the bulb sitting level in the holder.

Burn a hole into the bottom of the stem of the Flute.  I found that no matter how much tape I used on the holder, some water always managed to make it's way in.  It's better to let it drain out as the LED Floods don't ever generate enough heat to dissipate any condensation that forms in the holder.

Depending where you live, you may or may not need to stuff steel wool into the stem of the Flute.  This step lets the condensation drain out without letting all the creepy crawlies into the holder.  I'm located in North Texas and the winters here are generally mild so all the bugs that generally bite the dust farther north, make a bee line for the light and this is the only way I could stop them from taking up residency.

Thread the wires for the MR-16 through the hole in the flute.  It's easier to push the wires from the outside of the flute up through the top opening than the other way around.

Place heat shrink tubing on the wires, (I use red for the positive pole so I don't have to try and figure out the positive and negative sides every time I plug a bulb in).  Strip the wires on the MR-16 socket and the wires, slice and solder them for a good solid connection.

Use a heat gun to shrink the tubing.  You also may want to shrink another red piece of tubing at the other end of the positive power wire, it just makes it easier when you're wiring the lights to your controller.  I have a piece of granite tile that was left over from construction that I use as a rest for the heat gun when I'm done with it.  It keeps me from burning chunks out of the countertops in my workshop, plus it's also great as a hot melt glue gun rest.

All shrunk up and ready for further assembly.

Set the flute upright and push the socket with the bulb in it down into the flute.  Make sure you keep the spliced parts of the wires completely inside the flute, so you negate the possibility of getting any water into the splice just in case the heat shrink tubing isn't totally watertight.  You also won't need to try and glue the bulb into the flute.  I did this at first, but found it served no purpose other than making it harder to replace the bulb if I needed too.  Don't worry if the bulb doesn't sit perfectly level in the holder, you have to place and aim the spot were you want it anyway.

Tape the opening in the side of the flute with duck tape making sure you have the power wires heading down the side.  I used different colors of tape for the different colors of the bulbs.  Since you can't tell what color a LED flood is until it's lit up, this just makes it easier for me to tell which color I'm working with.  One other little trick I found that helps with keeping the colors straight is to color a few of the LEDs with the corresponding color of Sharpie.  It doesn't affect the light output at all and does make it much easier to identify once the paper tag falls off.

Place one of the bead lids on the top and tape it down on both sides of the holder.

Place the Holder into a section of PVC pipe and tape the wires to the PVC.  You can make the PVC pipe any height you need it to be.  I have some that are 3' tall, (they're behind the taller bushes in the flower bed), and some that are only 6" long, (they need to be shorter to be able to hide them better).

That's it.  Now take them outside, push the PVC pipe into the ground where you want it, aim the light where you want it, hook it up to a D-Light DCx16 Board and enjoy!

Remember this is my site and my opinions, I'm not an expert at anything, if you have questions or constructive comments e-mail me, and finally, please don't post any of this information on the TCL site or boards.  Thanks!